UV water purifiers come in many different types and sizes. Some types are better suited for specific situations than others. For example, a home that uses well water requires more water disinfection than a home that is connected to a city water supply. Regardless of your water source or home size, there is a UV water purifier that best suits your needs. Below you can find information about the types of UV water purifiers, how to size your UV system, and other tips when purchasing a system for your home.
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UV water purifiers are used to decontaminate water containing bacteria, viruses and parasites. The most common application for UV water treatment is well water, but many homeowners choose to protect their municipal water from microorganisms in rare cases of contamination.
UV systems use a bulb that emits UV-C light, a specific wavelength of ultraviolet light that inactivates microorganisms. Once neutralized, these microbial contaminants cannot regenerate and are no longer a threat. However, the water supplied to the UV system must be as clean as possible. Minerals, sediment and dirt prevent UV light from reaching the microorganisms it is supposed to neutralize. Therefore, pretreatment systems, such as water softeners and sediment filters, are essential for successful UV water filtration.
Yes, a UV system is a point of entry (POE) system and not a point of use (POU), meaning all the water that enters your home is treated by the UV system. This ensures that all water used for drinking, cooking, brushing teeth, bathing and other uses is free of microbial contaminants. If you want to treat more water at a single faucet, such as cooking and drinking faucets, consider a POU reverse osmosis system.
UV systems are measured by flow rate, the number of gallons they process per minute. The standard flow rate of a UV purification system is 8 gallons per minute (gpm). However, a large home will require a higher flow rate system to meet its water needs. You can determine the best size for a UV system by using the number of bathrooms as a reference. For example, a home with 1 bathroom can safely use a 6 gpm UV system. For each additional bathroom, 2 to 3 gpm should be added to the total. When in doubt, it is always better to increase the size of your system than to reduce it. A UV water purifier that is too small for your home’s flow rate will not adequately treat the water, putting people in your home at risk of waterborne illness.
Yes, the flow rate of water through the UV system determines whether the water is exposed to the UV light long enough to inactivate microorganisms. The flow restrictor is an essential component for every UV system. If the flow rate is not controlled through the UV system, water can pass through before being properly treated. The water flowing through the system is not exposed to UV-C rays for a sufficient period of time, causing some bacteria and viruses to become active in the water. To ensure your UV system properly disinfects all water flowing through it, you must install a flow restrictor to the incoming plumbing. The maximum water flow rate must match the maximum allowable flow rate of the UV system.
To effectively treat water, a UV system requires pretreatment to remove sediment and minerals that make the system less effective. The two main filtration components needed before UV filtration are a 5-micron sediment filter and a water softener. Sediment filters remove suspended substances in water, such as dirt, sand, dust, and other debris larger than 5 microns. If left in water, this debris can block UV rays from optimally disinfecting the water. Water hardening minerals are also dangerous to the performance of UV systems. The water flowing through the UV system must be softened for the treatment to be effective. Therefore, it is recommended to use a water softener along with a sediment filter to pre-treat your UV system.
The UV water filtration system’s alarm signals when the sensor detects something is wrong with the system. An alarm is a necessary feature that indicates one of the following conditions:
NSF/ANSI 55 divides UV water filtration systems into two distinct types, Type A and Type B. Type A UV water systems should be used with water containing microbiological contaminants, such as well water or surface water (stream, lake, etc.). These systems are designed to inactivate microorganisms, including bacteria, viruses, Cryptosporidium oocysts, and Giardia cysts from contaminated water. Class A UV systems should not be used to treat raw wastewater, wastewater or any water of intentional origin. They are designed for installation on clear (not colored, cloudy or cloudy) water.
Otherwise, Class B UV water systems should only be used as an additional germicidal treatment with already disinfected water. These systems are optimal for use with public drinking water or other drinking water that has been tested and found acceptable for human consumption by the state or local health authority having jurisdiction. Class B UV systems are designed to minimize commonly occurring non-pathogenic nuisance microorganisms. These systems are not intended to disinfect microbiologically unsafe water and may not make claims regarding individual or general cysts. Statements regarding microbial health effects may not be made on Class B systems.
UV dose is a measurement of the energy delivered by a UV water system, typically measured in mJ/cm². The higher the dose delivered, the greater the energy provided to any microorganisms present in the treated water. At a certain threshold, this energy becomes sufficient to inactivate most microorganisms present.
A Class A UV system must deliver a dose of at least 40 mJ/cm²,while a Class B UV system must deliver a dose of at least 16 mJ/cm². The higher dosage of Type A systems allows them to inactivate pathogenic organisms and the lower dosage of Type B systems allows for inactivation of only non-pathogenic organisms.
When testing this dosage, the flow rate must match the system’s maximum acceptance rate. UV transmission must also be reduced to 70 percent or to the alarm trigger point, whichever percentage is lower.
See more: What you need to know about water neutralization systems
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Translator: Duong Nguyen Hoang Khang
MDPE pipe, also known as medium density polyethylene pipe, is used externally for supplying water to a property, usually mains water, up to the stopcock of the building. This type of pipe is bright blue so it can be easily identified in the ground.
This pipe is great for long-term use to supply water to a property. It won't corrode or deteriorate underground, so there's a minimal chance that it'll need repairing or replacing. MDPE pipe is also stress-fracture-resistant, meaning it won’t break under pressure when underground.
MDPE pipe isn’t UV stable, meaning it must be run underground – this can make it more difficult to access if it ever does need repairing or replacing. This type of pipe cannot carry hot water, meaning its only use is as a mains supply pipe.
Underground pipe carries greywater and blackwater to the sewers from soil pipes. They’re terracotta coloured so they can be easily spotted underground for maintenance. You’ll find 110mm and 160mm underground drainage pipes, with 110mm most commonly used for domestic properties, whilst 160mm are used for commercial properties where the water volume is greater.
These pipes have a push-fit design meaning there’s no welding or tightening needed to install them. Underground pipes are made of PVC with a smooth finish. This improves water flow and reduces debris, helping to keep the pipes working well.
Underground pipes are not UV stable, and are therefore only suitable for underground use.
Soil pipes are made from PVC and are used to take black water and grey water from your toilet and sinks to the sewer. They’re big enough to allow solid waste to pass, and are vented near the top of a building to reduce odours and keep harmful gases away from the property. Soil pipes come in a variety of colours, and the colour chosen will often depend on the colour of the guttering.
The simple push-fit design and sealing rings of soil pipes make them easy and quick to install. The PVC is a strong, lightweight material with high chemical and UV resistance, making it ideal for transporting waste and soiled water. This also means soil pipes don't need to be installed underground away from sunlight.
The main consideration with soil pipes is the issue of blockages. These will occur more regularly than other types of pipes because of the purpose of soil pipes – to transport solid and liquid waste to sewers. Additionally, soil pipes make up a complex system called a soil stack with different components that should be installed by a qualified professional, as mistakes could be harmful, costly and smelly!
There are two types of plastic plumbing pipes: PB (also known as polybutylene pipes) and PEX pipes (also known as cross linked polyethylene pipes). Pipe sizes are the diameter of the pipe; 15mm or 22mm are popular for domestic plumbing, whilst 28mm is used for commercial environments.
PEX is often viewed as a sturdier alternative to PB pipe. However, PB is more flexible and easier-to-manipulate. Both are quick and easy to install heat-free, ideal for tight spaces and protecting homes from heat damage. They’re interchangeable with other systems, and won't corrode over time with proper use.
Internal plastic pipes are not as robust as copper alternatives. They also cannot be used outside due to the increased risk of freezing as well as potential UV damage – both could cause the pipe to deteriorate and start leaking. If you have any water supply pipes on show, you may find copper alternatives are also more aesthetically pleasing.
Copper plumbing pipes were the pipe of choice before plastic pipes were invented, and are still used now – both externally and internally, as they’re UV stable. 15mm and 22mm diameter copper piping is used in domestic plumbing, while 28mm is used in commercial environments.
Copper pipes are robust and fire resistant, and prevent bacterial growth within the plumbing system. They’re also easier to recycle than plastic pipes. Copper compression fittings can be used with plastic pipes as they’re a type of flame-free copper fitting, making them reasonably flexible.
Copper pipes can be more difficult to install and repair than plastic pipes – although this shouldn’t be a problem for experienced plumbers. You'll also find copper pipes can't withstand acidic water. These pipes also come with a slightly higher price tag. Standard copper fittings cannot be used with plastic pipes as heat is required to connect them – making them less flexible than plastic plumbing unless you use compression fittings.
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