72-cell is about a foot taller, and they cost a bit less to mount in large-scale applications. However, both 60-cell and 72-cell solar modules use the same cell technology, and they work out to the same price from a cost-per-watt perspective. Either option can be used in residential or commercial installs – the ideal choice depends on your array layout and space constraints where you will mount your system.
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But when it comes down to choosing your solar modules, the number of cells included in the panel isn’t the most important factor. Cost, aesthetics, warranty, efficiency, and durability should all be taken into account when selecting the right PV panels. In this article, we’ll discuss some differences between 60-cell solar panels and 72-cell solar panels as well as their pros and cons.
Solar modules are made from blocks of silicon ingots that are cut into wafers. Those are the squares that you see that make up the modules.
Each solar cell (monocrystalline) produces about 0.55 volt. Multiple cells are wired in series, plus to minus, to make a solar module. Wiring the cells in series increases the PV panel voltage to a usable level. The more cells that are wired in series, the higher the voltage.
For example, if 36 cells are wired in series, you get an output of about 19.8 volts. Remember that solar first got its start in the battery-based off-grid world, where PV panels were built to charge battery banks. The 36-cell solar panel that output 19.8V is perfect for charging a 12-volt battery bank. Since you need a higher voltage to charge a battery, a 36-cell solar panel is called a 12-volt nominal panel, it’s designed to charge a 12-volt battery.
Likewise, a solar panel with twice as many cells, 72 cells, outputs about 39.6 volts. And it’s great for charging a 24-volt battery bank. So it’s called a 24-volt nominal solar panel.
If you have a 48-volt battery bank, since there are few companies produce 48-volt solar panels, in that case, you need wire multiple PV panels together in series, either 4 12V nominal panels or 2 24V nominal panels, which will efficiently charge a 48V battery bank even in very hot weather when the voltage of PV panels drops low.
So all was well and good with figuring out what nominal voltage solar modules to use. Just make them match the nominal voltage of the batteries. But along came two different technologies that added an interesting twist to the next.
The first was grid-tied solar with a grid-tie inverter, you could now convert the DC voltage from the PV panels directly into AC to power your properties, no batteries required. So the restriction of 12V or 24V and 48V went away. This allows solar panel manufacturers to use however many cells they want to.
Today for solar modules up to above 320 watts, the industry settled on 60 cells. Using terminology from the battery world, that’s a 20V nominal panel. With an Open Circuit Voltage or Voc of around 41 volts. Grid-tied solar systems are able to string up to 20 pieces (/41/1.21=20) of 60-cell solar panels in series and stay within the electrical code restriction of staying under VDC, even when considering the cold temperature. If they were using 24V 72-cell solar panels, they would be limited to only 16 pieces (/49.5/1.21=16) in series in cold environments.
The second change was still in the battery based world, with solar charge controllers that are used to manage to put the power from the PV panels into the batteries. Early on, the pulse width modulated (PWM) charge controllers had to match the nominal voltage between the photovoltaic panels and the battery bank. Maximum power point tracking (MPPT) solar charge controllers came onto the scene and allow you to take a higher voltage input and reduce the charge controller voltage output to correctly charge a battery bank while increasing the output current, eliminating any power loss due to forcing PV panels to operate at whatever voltage the battery bank was actually at.
This opened up the possibility to use any cell count solar modules, as long as the voltage was higher than the battery bank. Although some specialized charge controllers allow you to charge with a lower voltage solar panel, most of them require a higher voltage.
Since 60-cell “grid-tie” solar panels are so common now, their price per watt has dropped much lower than the standard 12V nominal panels, making them an attractive option to charge battery banks. Just remember, you have to use a more expensive MPPT charge controller to do it.
Also, note that you cannot use a single 60-cell solar panel to charge a 24V battery bank. You need at least 1 72-cell solar panel or 2 60-cell panels in series to have a voltage high enough to charge 24V. If you’re in a cold environment, most 150V MPPT solar charge controllers limit you up to only 2 72-cell panels in series, but you can do up to 3 6-cell panels in series and still stay within that 150-volt limitation.
So, what about the 72-cell 24-volt solar modules for grid-tied systems? Well, technology and codes move forward, and newer revision of the electric codes now allow for volts strings for grid-tie commercial and utility-scale systems.
Also, grid-tie inverters are getting bigger and bigger, allowing for extremely high wattages is getting inverted. Since watts equals volts times amps, a way to increase the wattage of a solar panel is to increase the voltage by adding additional cells.
The cost of installing 60-cell vs. 72-cell panels may also vary a bit for your installation. 72-cell solar panels tend to be cheaper to install on a large scale, which is why they’re more common for commercial applications. Because each panel has more solar cells, you can typically install fewer panels to generate the same amount of electricity. Fewer panels mean less racking is necessary, which helps cut down on overall equipment and installation costs.
On the other hand, 60-cell panels are lighter and easier to install which is why they’re more common for residential rooftop installations. This can mean lower labor costs for the installation. For large, commercial installations, the extra size and weight of a 72-cell panel aren’t as much of an obstacle because cranes are often used to lift the equipment to the rooftop.
There’s one scenario where 72-cell solar panels are less common. This exception comes when you build a solar system around micro-inverters.
Micro-inverters work on a 1-to-1/2/4 system, where each inverter is hooked up to an individual PV panel(or 2 panels, sometimes 4 panels). The benefit of this type of system is that it is modular: if one part stops working, it doesn’t affect the rest of your array. This makes it easy to repair and expand your system.
Micro-inverters have a cap on how much AC wattage they can handle. If PV panels produce more power than the micro-inverter can process, the panels would still work, but you’re simply wasting electricity – and by extension, wasting money. You’d essentially pay a higher price for your panels without getting the benefit of additional output.
When it comes down to choosing your solar modules, the number of cells included in the panel isn’t the most important factor. Cost, aesthetics, warranty, efficiency, and durability should all be taken into account when selecting the right PV panels for your home or business.
For the cost, it’s a good idea to compare your 60-cell and 72-cell panel options on a cost-per-watt ($/W) basis. Similar to looking at dollars per square foot when shopping for a home, looking at $/W shows you what the cost of a turnkey solar panel installation is on a per-watt basis. Looking at this factor will allow you to standardize the price of installations using either 60-cell and 72-cell panels, especially if you’re comparing different system sizes.
PV panels come in a variety of cell colors (dark blue, blue, black), cell shapes (pseudo square, full square), backsheet colors (white, black) and frame colors (silver, black). If aesthetics are a concern, make sure to look at an image of the panel before signing the contract, or ask your installer for photos of their past installations with the same equipment to get a feel for how they will look on your roof. If you’re looking for the sleekest appearance possible, there are many black-on-black panel options. You may pay more for these options, but it can be worth it.
The biggest difference is their size – 72-cell panels are about a foot taller than 60-cell panels. Both types use the same technology and cost about the same per watt of power. 60-cell panels are popular for homes because they’re lighter and easier to install, while 72-cell panels are often used in bigger commercial projects because you need fewer panels to get the same power output.
Yes, but you’ll need the right setup! For a 24V battery system, you’ll need either two 60-cell panels connected together or one 72-cell panel. Remember, you’ll also need a special controller called an MPPT charge controller. It costs a bit more, but it helps your panels work efficiently with your batteries.
60-cell panels usually work better with micro-inverters. Here’s why: micro-inverters can only handle a certain amount of power, and 72-cell panels might produce more power than the micro-inverter can handle. This means you’d be paying for extra panel power that you can’t use – kind of like buying a super-powerful sports car but never being able to drive it at full speed!
It depends on your project! For large installations like business buildings, 72-cell panels can save money because you need fewer panels and less mounting equipment. But for home installations, 60-cell panels might be more cost-effective because they’re easier to handle and install, which means lower labor costs. Think about it like buying in bulk – it’s cheaper per item but only if you really need that much!
While it’s technically possible, it’s usually better to stick with one type. Using the same kind of panels helps your system work better and makes it easier to maintain. It’s like building with Lego blocks – everything fits together better when you use the same type of pieces!
Solar panels come in different colors like dark blue, blue, and black. The color doesn’t affect how well they work, so it’s mostly about how you want them to look on your roof. Black-on-black panels are popular because they look sleek, but they might cost a bit more. It’s a good idea to ask your installer to show you pictures of different panels installed on houses similar to yours before making a choice.
Energy bills are on the rise. As the weather heats up, it's going to take more energy to cool the house and keep everyone comfortable. And when fall and winter come around again, it's the same story with running the heat. Plus, pretty much everything else also requires electricity, from the lights, television, computers and phones to gaming consoles, home appliances, EVs and more. All these power needs come with rising energy bills.
A recent CNET survey found that high energy bills are stressing out 78% of US adults, but 70% of those Americans are looking into ways to be more energy efficient. Switching to solar power is a logical next step for homeowners looking to lessen their monthly bills, perhaps give back to the grid on low energy days and bank solar energy for when the grid goes down due to overwhelming demand or a downed transformer. But 32% are also concerned about the cost of energy-efficient projects, too, though they're still a worthwhile investment to consider.
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Installing solar panels is a smart investment that can increase your home's value and reduce your energy bills, but with tens of thousands of dollars on the line, you can't take it lightly, no matter how many federal or local incentives may be available. Knowing the right kind of questions to ask solar companies in your area can ensure a smooth installation experience and save you thousands over your system's lifetime.
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Going solar is a big step in the right direction, but if you've never dealt with solar companies before, it can be overwhelming, even intimidating. It's a common issue on Reddit, with people asking others who've gone through the process for advice.
Through research and the expert knowledge of CNET's energy team, we've gathered the top 15 questions -- and expected answers -- you should ask before you sign a contract from any solar installer.
The solar industry's recent boom means that more companies than ever are getting in on the action. That's generally a good thing, but not all of them are experienced installers or even legitimate businesses.
"Sometimes these installation companies are fly-by-night. They open one month and close the next," said Jani Hale, help desk manager with Solar United Neighbors, a nonprofit that helps consumers go solar by forming residential co-ops and providing educational support. Ideally, an installer will have been in business for at least three years or more.
Online reviews for solar installers are a great start, but they're not as reliable as an industry certification. The National American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners (NABCEP) sets standards for knowledge, experience and professionalism in the renewable energy sector. "We recommend that at least one person in that company be NABCEP certified to ensure that they have the appropriate knowledge and skills," Hale said.
Additional certifications can tell you more about a company's labor practices and environmental standards. B Corp-certified companies are required to meet certain social and environmental standards in their operations, including fair labor practices and wages. "If installers are getting a fair wage, they're going to be much more likely to do a quality installation," said Micah Gold-Markel, who founded Philadelphia-based installer Solar States in .
"There are different rules for different states, so making sure that the person you're talking to can explain the rules in your state very clearly is extremely important," said Gold-Markel.
For example, California law restricts the backflow of residential solar to the grid. In Pennsylvania, residential systems can send unlimited power back to the grid, with utilities required to pay the full retail price. Those state-by-state differences can significantly affect the payback period for your system.
In addition to the 30% federal tax credit offered by the Inflation Reduction Act, you may be eligible for additional credits or incentives based on other factors. Those incentives can add up, and that's before any local or utility-specific incentives come into play. A knowledgeable solar installer will be able to tell you about federal, state and local incentives that can help you save money. "You can get between 30% and 60% of the cost of your solar back in tax credits, depending on how you use these various federal incentives," Gold-Markel said.
For example, if you're purchasing solar for your business it may be possible to accelerate the depreciation of that asset, allowing for a larger tax deduction in the initial years of your system. You could also be eligible for additional credits if your installer uses American-made materials.
Ask about the equipment an installer plans to use and why they've made that choice. A company that only uses one size of panel may not be the best fit if your home has a complex or architecturally elaborate roof. "Beware of salespersons who imply that there's only one type of solar system or battery storage," Hale said. "There are many brands of solar equipment and system designs to choose from."
Gold-Markel also recommends inquiring about where equipment was sourced, with a preference for panels that were manufactured in the US. "We are part of Amicus, a national cooperative of installers that buys ethically sourced solar panels," he says. "If you can find an Amicus installation professional in your area, you know you're getting a responsibly sourced system."
The age of your roof is a key consideration in going solar. Solar United Neighbors recommends replacing a roof with less than 10 to 15 years of life left before installing your system.
A competent solar installer should be able to give you an opinion of your roof's condition and make recommendations as part of their proposal. "They may not be roofers themselves, but they should be able to say, 'We see some damage on your roof and it would be a good idea if you got it replaced prior to going solar," Gold-Markel said.
Believe it or not, the salesperson you're speaking with might not work for the company that will actually do your installation. Make sure the installer you're signing on with will be the one to do the work.
"There are a lot of high-pressure marketing companies out there that are sort of posing as solar companies," Gold-Markel said. "All they do is marketing and sales, and then they pawn off the solar installation to some other company. That can be a real recipe for disaster."
You'll want to discuss a rough project timeline with any solar installer you're considering -- both in terms of when work will begin and how long it will take to get your solar installation up and running. Hale noted that's a question a reputable installer should be asking you.
"Installers should ask what your timeframe is for getting your system installed, so they can give you the room to do your research," she said. "The really good installers will wait for you to come back to them."
Gold-Markel recommends inquiring about extended warranties or operations and maintenance packages that cover the entire life of the system, which is typically around 25 years. "Ask if you can also get an operations and maintenance package, an extended warranty that covers the lifespan of the solar or a longer warranty for the workmanship than may come with the contract," he said.
Due to high interest rates, financing your solar installation is a less attractive option than it was a few years ago. If you are considering financing, Gold-Markel said, be sure to inquire about any hidden fees that may be a part of the agreement. It's also important to look into the institution offering the loan, which may be a third party, and read the terms closely to understand what happens if you default.
Homeowners tend to focus on the total cost to install solar or the cost per panel. Be sure to compare the cost in dollars per watt when comparing solar installers, Hale said. Two solar systems may have a similar overall cost, but the wattage generated can differ based on panel size and capacity. The system with the lower cost per watt is the better deal.
A good solar installer should make it easy to understand how much of your household's power consumption can be met by your solar system. Factors like weather, shade, roof size and household energy use will all affect how much power your panels will generate.
Information about how much of your household's electricity will be offset by your system should be included in a reputable solar installer's proposal for your project, and installers should be forthcoming about this information. "If that's clearly laid out in a proposal, then nine times out of ten, that's a green flag," Hale said.
Your discussions with solar installers should not only estimate how much you'll save over the life of your system but also include how that estimate was derived.
Installers calculate lifetime savings using a metric called a utility escalator. This percentage describes the projected inflation rate of the cost of power and is based on historical trends (and is different from the escalators in a power purchase agreement). Solar United Neighbors recommends checking that the utility escalator used in competing proposals from different installers is the same to help you compare accurately.
It's not possible to ensure that every panel in your solar system will always produce power at the maximum level, said Gold-Markel, but a good installer should be able to guarantee your panels' performance within a reasonable range.
"If the overall power output is within a reasonable error rate of, say, 10% of what was predicted, then I think you should be happy with the outcome," he says.
Net metering policies in some states allow you to sell power generated by your solar system back to the public grid -- a significant solar incentive that can significantly reduce the payback period on your system. You don't typically sell that power to your energy utility directly.
Instead, homeowners often sell solar renewable energy certificates, or SRECs, through a third party known as a broker or aggregator. Your installer may be able to connect you with a broker. If you'd prefer to choose your own broker, Solar United Neighbors recommends double-checking your contract to make sure that's not prohibited in your agreement.
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