Everything You Need To Know To Find The Best Fence Semi Trailer

21 Apr.,2025

 

Tips for farmers and ranchers on buying a semi and trailer

Many farmers and ranchers today are buying their own semi-trucks and trailers, to haul hay, grain and livestock. Before making the big purchase, they will want to consider some key points.

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Bruce Carpenter, a trucker based in Gooding, Idaho, has driven many kinds of trucks, hauling all kinds of loads (in all lower 48 states) for the past 30 years, including several years hauling water, drill steel and other supplies for the oil industry in North Dakota. Regarding weight and capacity for a farm truck, he says it all depends on what state you are in, the weight limits, and criteria that qualify it as a farm truck (without the driver needing to have a commercial driver’s license or CDL).

“All the states are different; find out what is required in your state. It depends on whether you are hauling to and from your farm within a short distance. If you haul across state lines you must have a log book, and weight limits are different,” Carpenter said.

There are weight limits in each state for what constitutes a farm truck, according to Jerry Miller, sales manager at 18-Wheeler Truck and Trailer in Rapid City, S.D. “We recommend buying an annual overweight permit and most farmers do. That’s a one-time fee of $60, so if they happen to have a load sometime that’s over the weight limit they would be OK,” Miller said.

If hauling within the state, a CDL isn’t needed. “They can haul within a 150-mile radius but need to be familiar with the regulations of the state they live in. Many farmers and ranchers have found that they can use their own trucks as a tool to save money and make money; if you hire it done it costs $4 to $6 a mile to haul hay. It doesn’t take very many loads to make it cheaper to own your own truck and trailer,” Miller said.

“In many states, if you are hauling something for your own farm, your truck can be licensed for farm use,” Carpenter said. “In Idaho, for instance, I am hauling milk and we don’t need a log book because we are not going over the distance limit. If a person starts doing commercial hauling, they must have a CDL, medical certificate, etc.” For a truck that is only hauling your own hay, grain, livestock, etc. there are farm exemptions.

MILEAGE CONSIDERATIONS

Different trucks vary in mileage they get, depending on the speed, load and gear for doing the job. “Mileage you get will also depend on whether you are pulling one long trailer, two trailers or three trailers. Today you’d probably be looking at something with at least 500 horsepower, and then you can haul just about anything (hay, grain, cattle, farm machinery, etc.),” Carpenter said.

Many people choose used trucks, to save money. “This is often your best bet — finding a good used truck rather than spending $130,000 for a new one. When you buy a new truck you also have to pay excise tax to the federal government, which is around $20,000. You don’t have to pay that on a used truck,” Carpenter said.

“There are many used trucks available with automatic transmissions but these are not as good for farm hauling. I saw a couple guys in North Dakota hauling water and in the wintertime those trucks were a nightmare. They couldn’t go anywhere on the icy roads; they couldn’t get up the hills,” he said. On a farm or ranch you may be hauling on bad roads and rugged terrain and you want a truck that can handle those conditions, and an automatic transmission won’t handle it, he said.

His favorite all-purpose truck is a Kenworth T800. “Those are the best; when we were hauling water in North Dakota in bad conditions, those trucks held up better than anything. Some of the other trucks work well, too, like Peterbilts. The Kenworth T800 holds its value better than any other truck, as far as used trucks go,” Carpenter said.

Miller said most ranchers in his area are buying either Day Cab Trucks (with an engine forward of the cab, with a conventional hood configuration — without a sleeper berth) or cheaper tandem-axle trucks. “Some of the larger farmers want pusher-axle trucks so they can haul as much weight as possible,” he said.

The big trucks vary in what kind of mileage they get because most farm trucks are pulling heavy loads. “It varies between 4.5 and 6 miles per gallon, depending on the load, and whether they have very many hills to climb,” he said.

“A lot of farmers and ranchers only put 10,000 to 20,000 miles on a truck each year. These may be rugged miles, but it’s not a lot of miles.” The farm equipment isn’t going thousands of miles and will hold up a long time if you take care of it.

MAINTENANCE

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“A semi will take more maintenance than a pickup; you don’t want to neglect anything,” Carpenter said. “It has to be running properly, because periodically you will be checked on the highway, no matter what kind of plates (farm tags) you have, and if things aren’t up to par and there are any safety issues, you will get a ticket and that truck will get parked. It can’t move again until it is repaired,” he said.

Miller said maintenance is very important for any of the big trucks. “They will usually go 10,000 to 12,000 miles between oil changes, and it’s important to keep up on maintenance whether they are new or used. In winter most people use blended fuel so they will start in cold weather and won’t freeze up. They need to be plugged in or put in the shop,” he said.

TRAILERS

There are many options in trailers, and your choice may depend on what you haul — whether cattle, grain, hay, etc. — and the state’s weight limits. “Always check on those limits first. You can talk to your state government; find a DOT officer who will talk to you and answer your questions,” Carpenter said.

“Most ranchers in our area are buying ground-load trailers because these are very efficient and can be used in pasture situations,” Miller said. “These trailers can haul 28 to 30 cows, and with the ground load cattle can be loaded or unloaded anywhere. A lot of ranchers have permanent corrals in various places, or portable corrals. With the ground load they can load from any corral and unload in a pasture with no corral,” he said.

“For hauling grain they’d need a tandem or a triple-axle grain hopper. These usually have the same weight capacity; you can usually put 45,000 to 50,000 pounds of grain on these, and a hay trailer would be similar weight,” Miller said. There are several options in hay trailers.

“We are a Neville dealer and order a lot of those with a beavertail and three ramps, and we also do the ground-load livestock trailer. We use Travalong and Neville for ground-load livestock trailers and Neville step decks. They have a 5-foot beavertail and the advantage is that when you have three ramps you can put another tier of bales on the end of the trailer. When you put the three ramps down, you can also load a swather or a tractor and baler, a bobcat or any other machinery. We sell a lot of those trailers.”

“For the thrifty buyer, we can put a brand new beavertail on most used trailers. It only costs $5,000 to add that extra 5 feet. We buy some 48-foot step decks and have a welding shop that can put the beavertail on those. We have customers who want us to do that. This is a big selling point and this makes the trailer very handy,” Miller said. ❖

Viewing a thread - Entryway design for semi - AgTalk

Drilldo
Posted 11/27/ 03:53 (#)
Subject: Entryway design for semi


Texas
We have a 500' or so long concrete driveway coming into our place. It is 15' wide and it butts up to a narrow two lane paved county road. It has small wings at the road but you can barelyturn in with a 24' gooseneck livestock trailer without getting off the concrete.

We want to be able to get semis in here so I need to widen the wings at the road. We also are going to place an electric gate and fence at the entry way.

How far back from the county road should the gate be and how wide does the entry way need to be at the county road? I was planning on just angling the concrete from full width at the road to the 15' back at the gate.I am lazy

60 to 70 feet wide here

gate would have to be like 20 foot wide at least 50 feet from the road

we also have to deal with the white stuff once in awhile

Texas
hillfarmer - 11/27/ 04:36

I am lazy

60 to 70 feet wide here

gate would have to be like 20 foot wide at least 50 feet from the road

we also have to deal with the white stuff once in awhile

The 15' wide part I can't easily change. I am not widening 500' of driveway.

So you think if I had it 65' wide at the road tapering in to a 15' wide gate set 50' in from the road I would be good?


SW Ohio
do you need to pull the semi clear off the road to stop and open the gate?, that will determine how far back the gate needs to be. Width is 'depends' on your semi turning radius and trailer setup, but make it plenty big.


NW Central Ohio
...is there a ditch directly across the road from the entryway? If there is...some tile and filling it in level with the road would allow the entryway to be narrower and still able to get in and out.


Texas
Directly across the road is the neighbors mail box. I can't swing wide off the pavement on the opposite side of my place.

Not worried about opening gate. It will have wireless remote and be open most the time anyway.

As to truck size full size truck with sleeper and 48-53' trailer.


central - east central Minnesota -
Drilldo - 11/27/ 04:48 hillfarmer - 11/27/ 04:36 I am lazy 60 to 70 feet wide here gate would have to be like 20 foot wide at least 50 feet from the road we also have to deal with the white stuff once in awhile The 15' wide part I can't easily change. I am not widening 500' of driveway. So you think if I had it 65' wide at the road tapering in to a 15' wide gate set 50' in from the road I would be good?

I don't think he said to make the whole driveway that wide . . . . . .

Just the radius and tapered to 20ft wide at gate about 50ft from edge of road and driveway, then down to 15ft drive .

That would be easy figuring and comfortable entry / exit . . . .



Portland, ND
I would have the gate wider than the 15' driveway. At least 18' or 20'.

Better find out what the easement is. On a paved county road you could be anywhere from 33' to 100' from the center of the road.

Who is going to be driving a semi into your yard? If it is just you, you can probably get by with less than if it is the average driver/steering wheel holder nowadays.

Washington, Kansas & Lincoln, Nebraska

the answers to these questions. If not I'd surely want to!

  • Is your existing concrete designed to repeatedly bear the weight of a loaded semi? If not, you'll tear it up over time.
  • Might your neighbor agree to move his/her mailbox a few feet to allow greater turning radius?
  • This one's already been asked, but who is going to be making the turn through the gate with a semi?

That said, my semi is a condo sleeper with a 50 foot, tri-axle grain trailer. Spreads will take greater turning room. Ideally, I'd want a gate no less than 20 feet wide, 50 feet from your edge of the roadway and an approach off a narrow road that begins at no less than 60 feet wide. I can likely do it at less and perhaps you could as well. But, again, who is going to be doing the negotiating of the semi into your driveway?



Edited by Larry NCKS 11/27/ 06:58


Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80

Maybe this picture, might help:





(semi turn radius.png)



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semi turn radius.png (86KB - 474 downloads)


Cambridge, southwestern Nebraska
The gate would have to be back at least as far as the right of way for the road is. Like others have eluded to, I would want to be able to get the truck off the road and lined up straight before going through a gate. 100' seems like quite aways off the road but just guessing that is where I might put the gate.

Wallis, TX

We moved our gate back this past spring.  I finally gave up figuring and just went with a little over a 100', mostly because that's where the posts worked out nice.  I wouldn't do any less if I could do it over.  Its real nice to be able to get a pickup and an 18 wheeler on the drive, out of the traffic.  This has happened more than once.  Either the 'follow me to the farm' or when locking up at night and the load of grain is leaving.

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Aberdeen MS
about the swing you need coming out of the drive more so than the swing needed to get in the drive.of the drive way with the truck and traler empty and see where the wheel tracks of the truck and trailer run. Then widen the drive a little wider for some leeway.

Liberty, MO
Being a farmer and grain hauler, I have a Volvo 630, sleeper cab on 221 inch wheelbase and a 40 ft hopper. Lots of places I load are 100 yr old elevators, and on farms also that aren't trucker friendly. If you have any doubts about the drive way, make it BIGGER, lots of truck have a terrible time going where I go because of trailer length, and long wheelbase. 300 inch plus inch set forward steering axles takes lots of room to navigate. Make it big enough so drivers will want to come back to your location. I have known some truckers that after one trip, won't come back because of a tight situation.

edit, Set the gate back far enough to allow a trailer to get off the road, and hinge the gate to go into your field. Just my opinion. Have a GREAT day.

Edited by olwhda 11/27/ 11:01


Texas
To answer some questions:

The driveway probably isn't thick enough for a semi but we run a fully loaded tandem dump truck on it all the time. Sometimes it comes and goes a half dozen times a day. I have had probably a dozen loaded concrete trucks in here as well as 16 belly dumps hauling gravel for our area around the shops.The only times we have damaged the concrete is when someone runs off the edge it cracks. This is another reason I want it plenty wide so that people can get in and out without running off the edge.

As far as the easement setback there is an established line of fences along the road with the neighbors and such. I will match that but it is too close to the road. I need a V in to the gate from that fence location.

The main truck going in and out will be me driving but we have other big trucks here delivering things maybe once a month. Currently most of them park on the side of the road and I have to go out there to unload. I want everyone to feel comfortable coming in. There is plenty of room to turn around once you are in the place.

The neighbor with the mailbox is a really nice guy but the area where his mailbox is is his entryway and he has it manicured like a golf course. I don't even want to ask or risk rutting it up.

greenfarmer
Posted 11/27/ 13:15 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Entryway design for semi


Central Minnesota
I'd put that gate at a minimum of 70 feet from the edge of the tar road. 70 feet should cover a 260"wb conventional truck with a 48-52' trailer. I don't think 50' is gonna cover much, and i'd want to be completely off the tar road to stop and get out to open the gate. Grain trailer might be 42', but your crank for your tarp adds another 1' out the back, along with catwalk.hillfarmer
Posted 11/27/ 15:01 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Entryway design for semi
I messed with the 50 foot gate setting

the 80 to 100 would be better

sorryLizton farmer
Posted 11/27/ 16:46 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Entryway design for semi



lizton IN
Get a semi and drive in and see where the wheel prints are at then make it just a little bit wider.

Keithcommissioner
Posted 11/27/ 17:21 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Entryway design for semi



southern Illinois
I promise you if you make it a 100ft wide, trucks will still run off the end of it. We have a farm up the rd with a couple of 60 foot tiles and the ends are mashed in on both tiles. Some truckers just turn the tractor in and let the trailer cross the ditch wherever it wants to. 40ft is wide enough for anyone that can drive a truck half way right.bsfarms
Posted 11/29/ 09:02 (# - in reply to #)
Subject: RE: Entryway design for semi